Costa Rica Days 5–7: Cahuita Wildlife, Caribbean Evenings, and When the Body Says No
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One evening we walked into town for supper — something I’m a firm believer in when travelling. Nine times out of ten, leaving the hotel brings better food and a better vibe. That night proved the point. I ordered red snapper, Colleen chose lobster, both packed with unmistakable Caribbean flavor. The bill came to around $60 USD, we had a couple of drinks, and the whole evening felt relaxed and unforced. Exactly what travel evenings should be. We were in bed by 7:30 p.m. — not from boredom, but because long days in heat and humidity catch up with you quickly.
Unfortunately, something I ate didn’t sit well. I woke with fierce diarrhea and had to cancel the planned jungle nature hike. No refund expected or given — just one of those realities of travel. The day became about recovery. I managed pancakes for breakfast, then took a tuk-tuk into town to buy Imodium. We stopped at the supermarket and picked up essentials — Powerade, cheese, butter, bread, salami, coffee, milk, and crackers — and set ourselves up for a simple balcony lunch back at the bungalow. The manageress kindly provided cups, cutlery, and hot water. Problem solved.
From the balcony, I watched the gardener trimming shrubs with a machete — a reminder that the simplest tools, in skilled hands, are often the most effective. Later, Colleen was offered a joint by one of the many Rastafarians in town. Locals told us that up to five cannabis plants can be cultivated for personal use.
We finished the day with a swim in the resort pool — a welcome escape from the humidity — before I retreated to the hammock, listening to heavy rain and parrots calling through the trees. That night, recovery mattered more than sightseeing.
Cahuita National Park: When Everything Comes Together
Once I was back on my feet, we headed out for the Cahuita National Park nature hike — a 9 km walk through coastal rainforest that turned out to be one of the highlights of the Caribbean leg.
Wildlife appeared constantly. We saw:
- An incredibly close sloth in a palm tree — so close I could have touched him
- Excellent views of howler monkeys
- A beautiful toucan (no photo, unfortunately)
- Two mono butterflies, almost impossible to photograph
- Two snake species: a vine snake and a yellow night adder
- Stingrays, hermit crabs, and a basilisk lizard (Jesus Christ lizard — though not running on water this time.
One white-faced capuchin monkey made a nuisance of himself, boldly stealing items from tourists’ bags and showing zero fear of humans. We also spotted plenty of raccoons and an agouti moving through the undergrowth.
A small moment stood out. A woman walking behind us was drinking mate. I asked if she was from Argentina — she was. We chatted briefly, and she topped up her mate and offered Colleen and me a sip. A small gesture, but it felt like one of those quiet signs of shared understanding on the road.
After the hike, Colleen and I swam in the Caribbean Sea — warm, refreshing, and exactly what our bodies needed. Lunch followed at a Caribbean restaurant near the trailhead. I had fish, Colleen had chicken with the customary rice, beans, and fresh salad. Simple, well prepared, and deeply satisfying. I had two Pilsen to rehydrate — the second tasted heavenly. Colleen’s cocktail came garnished with star fruit, something I’d never seen — or tasted — before.
By now, both of us were suffering from blisters from our sandals. Plasters and Neosporin became essential.
A few lessons were firmly reinforced:
- Break in footwear before travel
- Expect wet clothes to stay wet
- Listen to your body — sometimes rest is the activity
Back at Azania Bungalows, we took long, hot showers. I took ibuprofen for sore muscles and feet. We skipped dinner in town, finishing off bread, cheese, salami, and a few chocolate-covered nuts on the balcony. We packed that night, ready to move on to the next destination.
Days 5–7 delivered the full Caribbean spectrum: great food, illness, wildlife overload, quiet human connections, and practical lessons learned the hard way. Cahuita showed us Costa Rica at its most generous — when you’re well enough to receive it. And the slower moments in between were just as much part of the story.
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